General fishing tips

The bottom bouncer

Every angler knows the importance of the bottom of a water body when it comes to predators. In fact, a lot of people call the area one foot above the bottom of a lake or river the "strike zone," and consider that area to be the one where the chances of a catch are the highest. Of course, there are times when active fishes are caught in the middle of the water column or even on the surface, but you should never forget the following saying: "There are structures without fish, but there is no fish without a structure." This saying, known to any self-respecting angler, only highlights the importance of the bottom for the species caught in our waters.

Now, how can we increase the time our offering spends in this highly productive level? Could it be that the only solution is the purchase of a downrigger? This heavy tool that allows to reach phenomenal depths? No! An alternative solution is available to anglers that are less greedy or little interested in expensive gear for occasional fishing. This alternative is what many call the "poor men's downrigger," which is the bottom bouncer. (I am intently skipping over all lead fishing sinkers and dipsy divers.)

Bottom bouncers are a simple apparatus made of a metal rod that is bent at a 90-degree angle to which we add a sinker, whose weight depends on the depth to be reached. This little wonder allows you to move your lure in the attack zone at all times (if used correctly), while preventing you from jamming too many lures between rocks and other obstacles. The secret of this type of sinker lies in the use of floating or neutral balance lures with it. It is obvious that using a deep dive lure in combination with a sinker to scrape the bottom of a water body will only result in the loss of both objects.

The attaching technique for the bottom bouncer is quite simple: simply tie your fishing rod's monofilament to the centre of the 90-degree angle formed by the rod. Then, add two to four feet of monofilament behind the bottom bouncer, in the swivel provided for this purpose. Finally, simply attach a light lure (Lake Clear spoon, for example), a floating lure (Rapala original, Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow, etc.) or a neutral buoyancy lure (Rapala Husky Jerk and others) at the end of the line section where you put your sinker. All you have to do is let this rig slowly sink to the bottom, by trolling. This system allows you to sink the lure to the bottom of the water by avoiding obstacles, and to move your lure at the most productive depth.

For which species is this technique productive? In addition to known bottom species such as lake trout and walleye, the bottom bouncer technique can be very effective for bass, speckled trout and pike, as long as the weight of the lead is chosen based on the trolling speed and the depth to be reached. A good rule of thumb is to use a one-ounce sinker per depth of ten feet. For example, if you are aiming for a depth of twenty-five feet, a bottom bouncer weighting three ounces should do the trick.

You are now ready to face the ogres of the depths with a brand-new trick up your sleeve! Whether predators are fleeing toward the pits to escape light or if a heat wave pushes the fish to search for fresher waters, with a few bottom bouncers in your box, you will no longer say that they are out of reach!

The side planner

Among the many gadgets available on the fishing market, there are tools that help us be more productive and efficient in certain fishing conditions. Among these gadgets is the famous side planer. Many of Saint Peter's disciples mistakenly believe that it can't be used to catch brook trout. However, when we take the time to choose the right side planer format and model for the species we want to catch, it proves to be a surprising asset.

Why?

Fishing with a side planer, when done properly, is suitable for walleye, lake trout, bass, brook trout, pike and even muskellunge. All you have to do is choose the lure that will reach the ideal depth when used with the side planer.

When?

For any fishing situation in which a quiet and delicate approach is necessary, the side planer's place is justified in any experienced angler's box. Whether it is for surface species (lake trout early in spring, bass near docks, brook trout or muskellunge over sand shoals, etc.) or to fish during the passage of a cold front (just a reminder that when the weather drops, all species shift to neutral and will have to be approached in the most gentle, silent and natural way possible under penalty of coming back empty-handed), the side planer is quite awesome. Moreover, we all know that if a predator wants to eat, it will hang around the appropriate structures. Casting your line toward that structure only offers the possibility of presenting your lure perpendicularly to the structure, whereas if you troll with a planer, your lure will be parallel to the structure and very close to it. This approach will definitely increase your chances of success.

How?

I mentioned earlier that there are different types of planers, and that each one is suitable for specific conditions. Now, don't go believing that you will need to purchase all models to catch a few fish. But it seems logical that trolling a 10-inch lure at high speed for muskellunge would be useless with a tiny trout planer. Planers are sold between $12 and $100, depending on the model and their intended use. In the case of small size lures such as the ones used when fishing brook trout and bass, Luhr Jensen's adjustable model is perfect. When fishing for lake trout or using several moderate size lures on the same rig, Offshore Tackle models should do the trick. Finally, large double models are suitable for windy conditions (you must keep eye contact with the planer at all times) or for fishing with large lures (for muskellunge, among others).

Please note that some models are sold and designed to be used on one side of the boat only, while other models can be modified, allowing you to fish on either side of the boat. Other models (the largest ones) must be attached to a cable that is attached to a mast on the boat. Once you get a hit, some types of planers will remain in position on your fishing line without pulling on it during the fight (these models are equipped with a simple device that allows them to be deactivated with a simple stroke), while others completely detach from the line and float freely, allowing you to recover them once you have fished out your catch.

Next time you will be fishing in a context where a quiet and delicate approach is necessary, come prepared and bring your planer!

Fishing in cold water

The excitement is in the air, very strong and tangible. The sun warms our faces every time we go out, and tree buds are opening. ZECs are waiting for us, preparing the roads that will welcome us this weekend. The fishing season has officially begun!

Having a game plan for this first outing on the water is a way of making sure to start the 2019 season on the right foot. As soon as the surface of a lake is free of ice and the sun begins the water stratification process by warming the surface of the water, the behaviour of fish changes and becomes more aggressive in very shallow water. I am therefore proposing two highly effective fishing strategies adapted to this context.

Cold water with a spoon

Since trout and char are found between depths of 1 to 6 feet, the choice of lures is paramount. And it is precisely in these conditions that the very famous Lake Clear Wobbler wins the prize of efficiency and precision. This very thin and light lure will have a reduced tendency to cling to the bottom in shallow areas, in addition to offering strong action and reflection, provoking any trout. But let's face it, using a Lake Clear for the first time is kind of intimidating. Because of its action, it induces very strong strokes on the tip of the rod, making us doubt that we will ever feel a bite.

So here's the secret to success: consider fishing with a Lake Clear as a rhythm-based fishing. Adjust trolling and retrieving speed to get a constant motion of the spoon, as indicated by the movement of the tip of your rod. When this rhythm is interrupted, strike. If you are unlucky enough to miss the fish, let the lure go sink to the bottom by lowering your rod, and you will very often have the happy surprise of feeling a new attack. That is because the dead leaf movement made by the free-falling spoon is very convincing for the hungry predator. Don't forget to adjust the length of your snell between the spoon and the worm, depending on the water temperature. The closer it is to 52 degrees Fahrenheit, the shorter the distance between the worm and the lure.

As a starting point, 18 inches is generally suitable length for spring situations.

Fly fishing in cold water

Although flying insects are not usually seen on a first trip, this does not mean that fish do not feed on insects. Since more than 80% of a trout's meals take place beneath the surface of the water, it is not necessary to wait for the first swirls and boils to get your fly lines and fly boxes out. And with the fish entering an active feeding phase, we would be crazy to on skip on this pleasure!

To ensure your success, you will need to use an imitation of the subaqueous stage of the insect, a nymph. You can buy them in natural colours like black, grey, beige, brown and olive. Some traditional names include Hare's Ear, stonefly, 13A, among others. If presented delicately near structures like stumps and rocks, and retrieved by small bursts, these flies can be very productive. And if you have trouble detecting bites because they take place underwater, simply attach a dry fly two feet higher on your line. The latter will operate as a strike indicator by sinking at each bite, and allow you to vary your presentation and maybe leading to the catch of a few fish on the surface—if they fancy it.